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I used to travel to see it all. I’d land somewhere and immediately set out with a vague (okay fine, somewhat detailed) itinerary, and a completely unjustified confidence in my ability to figure things out on foot. I didn’t care how many buses it took or whether the train schedule hadn’t been updated since Mussolini…
Venice is having a bit of a moment. Again. Between the rising tides, the rising tempers of locals, and Jeff Bezos hosting a wedding spectacle fit for a Bond villain’s retirement party, you might be forgiven for thinking the city is more film set than functioning home. One minute, it’s supposedly slipping beneath the sea…
There’s a particular kind of silence that falls when you open your door in the early hours and find yourself suspended above the sea, coffee in hand, the Aegean still inky and asleep, where the hum of anticipation for sunset hasn’t yet begun, and the only thing stirring is the steam rising from your private infinity jacuzzi…
If the Amalfi Coast had a less obvious cousin, it would be the Turkish Riviera. Stretching along Turkey’s southwestern edge, this stretch of coastline is all slow mornings and salt-slicked afternoons, ancient ruins, beach bars on stilts, and towns filled with cats and grilled sea bass…
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Type “Things to do in Venice” into Google and the algorithm spits back the usual suspects: St. Mark’s Square, Rialto Bridge, Burano, the same roll-call of sights that already groan under the weight of day-trippers in matching sunhats. And yes, if it’s your first time…